TheExpatJournals.com

It’s almost September 1. And I thought I knew where I was moving. Hmmmm…
Participated in a walk through some beautiful projects in Casco Viejo the other day…an incredibly HOT day. The office of Casco Antiquo uses former gang members to do construction in, for example, a house being renovated to provide modern low income housing. I hope to put together a more in-depth piece of the activity before the month is out. One of the buildings we went into is a photography museum. And what a building it is!

Since it seemed everyone on this walk spoke fluent Spanish except for me…and since I had been ordered by my doctor NOT to go out into sunlight because of the meds I’m taking…I can’t say I felt totally present during the event, but I was very happy to have been invited to participate and didn’t want to miss it just because I’ve been under the weather. Now, I get to reconstruct it in English. I did take pictures! Thank you Sr. Arias for the invite. Turns out that Sr. Arias lives in what is perhaps the oldest house with the same family living in it in Casco Viejo. 200 years of the same family.

Seems Casco Viejo has been in the local news recently especially around speculators. There is certainly a LOT of activity in the old barrio these days and I wish I could say it’s all good, but I can say, there is a lot of good. And to any heading there, hope your radar for BS is working and that you don’t confuse people being nice with people being trustworthy. Everyone down here is nice. There are places and people to steer clear of and ways to go around the current free for all if you’re willing to do a little work. It’s not uncommon to be lead on only to have drastic last minute changes that kill a deal. It’s not uncommon, in fact seems to be the norm, to have the price of a building go up just because you meet the asking price. And if you happen to find something at a good price, keep it to yourself. The architect you bounce it off of may well pick up the phone and tell the owner he can get him more money. And you lose the property. I know of a house the owner has owned for less than six months without doing any work. His profit on the resale is $50K. Would’ve been more if the building weren’t wood. Yes, speculation seems to be paying off and in Casco Viejo, paying off is the name of the game these days. That’s not to take away from the charm nor the appeal nor to diminish belief in it’s future, but dealings in Casco Viejo are a ugly lower East side real estate was in NYC in the early 90’s. I know it’s too late to return to a period of innocence where Casco Viejo is concerned, but I sure hate that that is true. If you’re not in already, it’s too late for anything but the leftovers. I come from a culture of renters. I can’t seem to shake the idea that renting is for the city and buying is for the country, an like NYC, that means the beach or the mountains. Unlike NYC, apartments can be purchased here affordably. But I, for one, have already missed the boat on Casco Viejo. And it makes me sad to know that’s true. I think.

What’s the restoration driven by? What’s the five year plan driven by and delivering? What is the culture envisioned? Who gains the most and who loses the most? How does it impact culturally? Guess it’s time to dive in and answer some questions I haven’t bothered to ask before now. Where does creativity fit in? Artists are not usually the ones with money unless they are older and established and they are usually the mentors for those who still have an edge…you know, the ones who lead us somewhere we haven’t been yet instead of simply revisiting all the old faves. So where’s the Williamsburg of Panama City? Perejil? Bella Vista? Loud, noisy, busy Via Argentina?

I did attend a songwriter’s night in El Congrejo about a month ago and it was filled with talent of all sorts: playwrights, songwriters, painters and even advertising men who have art in their souls…if our American minds can grasp that. It was thrilling for me to find this group of people because they aren’t all under 25. There was a broad range and I have no doubt, they are the key to the map I’m looking for in Panama where culture is concerned. It’s not about concerts or dances for the rabiblancos. It’s not about what the elite present to the elite. That night and the opening night of La Casona…those were the two nights of magic in Panama that involved art for me…those two nights were artists paying homage to artists.

My whole first year here in Panama unfolded. I didn’t shape it…it happened. I think it’s time to get out of my own way again, stop planning and let it unfold. Cause folks, that’s when magic happens. And let’s face it…seeing magic in everyday, ordinary ways is why you started reading my journals to begin with.

In the next month or so, I’m starting a blog so my writing won’t be limited to the topic of Casco Viejo. I absolutely love exploring this country and Casco Viejo just happened to be the first place to win my heart. I have other infatuations after a year of roaming and the blog or journal or whatever you wish to call the spot where I will share my Panama with you is where the inner roaming will land online. Thought about seekersandsettlers.com, but what a dreadfully long email address to type: leslie at seekersandsettlers.com. I like the name and to me, it has always summed up the two types of people I believe there are in the world: seekers and settlers. Panamine.com maybe? Suggestions are welcome.

As are postings in the event anyone has any inclination to be other than totally silent. Hello out there? Anybody home? (They hear her calling through the hollow empty cavern of a messageboard as it echos down the yahoo tunnel and out to the sea that rises a full 18 feet before drowning out the sound through the open window of the dungeon where the water rushes in what is now known as Las Bovedas…) I still have to get the photo of a dungeon window from the sea only accessible at low tide. It’s a must do for me as is seeing the Northern or Southern Lights.