TheExpatJournals.com

I no longer live in Casco Viejo. It changed and/or I changed or time marched on to separate us, but in response to questions about how I saw the changes, and especially the mass eviction of squatters who had lived in those buildings for over 20 years, this is what I answered.

In terms of low income housing in Casco Viejo, MIVI did a great job providing some folks with housing as did one private venture. I think that who was left out, even more than the poor, were those who were neither poor nor rich and that is every non-rabiblanco artist living here. The area is, in theory, the cultural heart of the country but it was not developed with community in mind, simply as a tourist destination where residents are either rich or retired.

There was a time ladies set up makeshift tables to play cards all Friday night at a quarter per game. All year long, they collected those quarters to put into a Christmas Fund to buy gifts for the kids on the block. There was a time that, if they knew you were of their own, you were safe. There was a time when being a gringo in the neighborhood was novel, not common. My point is not even criticism. Things change. The point is simply that I am so glad I got to live there then. I’m not so sure it would speak to my soul today if I were seeing it for the first time. Personally, I don’t feel like it has retained the soul it had. There are lots of examples of gorgeous colonial architecture in many places. It was something more that is now gone. That something is an intangible.

People were poor, but seemed to be happy anyway. Football games in El Chorillo were neighborhood events with everyone having a good time. I’ve gone down on the beach during the baseball game when the tide was out to take pictures. I used to live in front of their low tide field and after being accustomed the business of major league baseball in the US, as a fan of the game, I was so inspired by the love of the game that would get these guys running around on rocks that would shred you in pursuit of an outfield fly. (Granted, the local corregiador or somesuch had the beer sales concession and I’m sure lots of beer contributed to the spirit of the game, still…) I was never one of the people locals harassed and I was never surprised by the stand off that came. I’m not suprised some new residents constantly have their cars vandalized.

My friend Blanca Davalos who owns La Casona was once discussing how the gang members of GreySkull (btw, did’t that finally sell and did they get the 3.5 million for it?) would willingly check their guns at the door before they were permitted inside. She never, ever had a problem yet, as you know, even the tourist cops as well as the locals would warn anyone nearing Plaza Herrera to turn around before they’re mugged as it was a very dangerous area. I never had any problems there either, not even with a good camera visible. Hell, I remember having one of the La Casona doormen walk me down to 13th Street when they couldn’t talk me out of heading there for photos and then he refused to go beyond 12th as it was too dangerous. So, I went alone and the minute I turned around to head back, I realized a cop was quietly following behind me. Aren’t the building there now like a half a million dollars or more?

So Blanca and I were discussing how some people have problems in the area and some don’t. She said something most profound that was a simple way of stating a lesson I had learned long, long ago. She said, “They feel our intent.”

When I was 18 or so, I headed to NYC from SC. Talk about falling off the turnip truck! Well, the very first taxi I ever took heard my accent and warned me not to speak to anyone or they would take me to New Jersey, turn me into a prostitute and drug addict and I would never see anyone I knew again. (Almost verbatim). So on my return, I told the second driver what the first had said and he just chuckled and replied, “Lady, it doesn’t matter where you go in this city. The only thing that matters is the attitude you take with you.”

That driver and Blanca were both saying the same thing.