TheExpatJournals.com

When I first came to Ecuador to peruse from the perspective of a possible move here, I had done almost a year of research, felt as though I no longer wanted to live in a big city and was certain I didn’t want to live that close to an active volcano that has already once caused the city to be evacuated due to ash cover…so I can’t say I’ve ever been very focused on Quito.

In fact, I had plans to visit Quito and the coast on that exploratory visit, but fell so in love with Cuenca, I just didn’t want to leave. So I didn’t. I stayed in Cuenca for nearly a month before returning and moving to Cuenca a few months later. So shockingly, though I’ve been living in Ecuador for over 8 months, I had never been to Quito. Until last week.

First, the flight from Cuenca to Quito was extraordinary! I think I saw 6 volcanoes above the clouds even though we flew at 28,000 ft. What a gorgeous and rare spectacle when you can see 3-4 volcanoes at the same time. Coming or going, sit at a window on the right side of the plane to absorb this wonder for yourself.

My impression of Quito was great! Now, I want to go back and linger a bit to know it better. Parque La Carolina is beautiful and the many shopping malls nearby were exciting after life in Cuenca. I did hit QuiCentro and CCI, where I took in "Sex and The City" and recognized the dog as one belonging to someone I knew well for many years in NYC. I sat around waiting for the credits and indeed, it was the same dog who actually now has her own blog: gidgetgormley.com

Anyway, I was quite surprised by how much more ‘Americanized’ Quito is than Cuenca. There was Dominos, Pizza Hut, Burger King, McDonalds, Applebees, Tommy Hilfiger, Bennetton, 9 West, Timberland, Tony Roma’s, KFC, and I’m told that the TGIFridays in Quito is by far the most successful restaurant in the whole of Ecuador. Why anyone wants to pay $10 for a greasy hamburger is beyond me, but there you have it.

There were lots of organic food stores and both El Espanol as well as El Griego delis in CCI offering specialities hard to find in Cuenca at prices hard to pay. I did try the ‘extra sharp’ (local) cheddar cheese in El Espanol and thank God I did before buying any…it was horrible. It’s as though the cheese made in Ecuador was shipped without refrigeration and has this moldy, bad, ‘left out of the fridge too long’ taste that is, in my opinion, inedible.

I made a quick trip through the historic center and was duly impressed with its loveliness, however, I ended up knowing for sure I preferred the flat, easy walking and bustling downtown of Cuenca. It’s more quaint in Cuenca, more pedestrian friendly and for sure, safer if Quitenos are any indication of the danger lurking around every block in historic Quito. Granted, there seemed to be more elaborate churches, government buildings and plazas, which is great for tourism, but I have no doubt in my mind anymore that Cuenca is better for living…at least how I define living.

In Cuenca, you don’t need a car at all. In Quito, it would be horrible without one and is even horrible with one given the ungodly amount of traffic and how long it takes to get from Point A to Point B before 8PM. Everyone has that complaint about Quito…the traffic is horrible…even people who live there and love it. Distances you need to cover are huge compared to Cuenca. I did walk from CCI to Quicentro beside lovely Parque La Carolina. One thing that struck me was how the designated pedestrian crosswalks emit a sound when it’s good to cross that sounds like some annoying bird. No, walking in Quito is not a primary mode of transportation. It’s too big, too spread out and crossing busy 4 lane city streets is no fun.

So Quito is the capital of Ecuador and as such, is indeed impressively beautiful. Due to the natural mountain borders, it has spread out from north to south as it has grown. And spread out it is! Still, due to building on those mountains as well as the many hills of the city itself, sometimes the views are magnificant. There’s also an area I hear is called Little Manhattan due to the congestion of high rises. It’s just off Parque La Carolina. All of the streets are named after foreign countries. This is the area I stayed in. It was basically at the intersection of Switzerland (Suiza) and Czeckoslavakia (Checoslavaquia…I think.) I stayed at a new hotel called Logano Suites and it was FANTASTIC! Granted, I got a special rate and beginning in July, you can too through a site that does not exist, but soon will called ecuadorconcierge.com

Anyway, my suite had a small kitchen complete with dishes, pots and pans, a 3/4 size stainless fridge, a stove, a coffee maker and a nice stainless toaster oven. It also had a small dining area, living area, stereo with remote as well as a comfy queen size bed, flat screen TV, walk in closet, electronic safe and posh bath with a tub! Tubs are rare in Ecuador I’ve found. The place was only completed 3 months ago, so everything is new and service was exquisite! The buffet breakfast was beautiful with fresh fruits, cereals, a selection of breads, ham, cheese, two fresh juices, coffee and more. I could not recommend it highly enough. Suites are around $80 per night.

I can’t speak to much else as I flew in one morning and out the next afternoon. The airport sucks and customer service at Icaro sucked. I returned to Cuenca on a plane that was painted red with the name Barcelona painted down most of it’s side and the front nose of the plane painted to look like a soccer ball. So, I assume that Icaro is a Spanish company and they are as football (soccer) crazy as everyone else in Latin America? But hey? The seats were leather and though we flew on Friday, the 13th, I arrived safely and at the end of the day, that’s the only thing that matters. It’s still amazing to me that flight attendents can serve small sandwiches and beverages to maybe 60 people in a half hour flight. Which happens on every short flight domestically, no matter which airline. I’m sure everyone in Quito will be happy when the new international airport is completed, in 2010 I believe.

So Quito, beautiful to visit and I can sure understand the appeal of living there, but I’m happy living where I do. But now, I most definitely want to go back for a longer visit. And especially for shopping. Guayaquil may offer a lot in that regards, but in Quito, I can shop without perspiring…no make that dripping wet just for stepping outside. BTW, I hear there’s a standing joke between Guayaquil (Ecuador’s business capital) and Quito (Ecuador’s capital). The joke is that Guayaquil is where all the money is made and Quito is where it’s all spent.

By the way, I thought this was interesting perspective on Cuenca from the air. First, it’s easy to spot how Cuenca is built between rivers…just follow the green tree lines:

Next, this view is the colonial center. You see (more or less) the famous landmark of the 3 blue domes of the (new) Cathedral. At the bottom of the photo, the tree line is the Tomebamba River. Now look at the top to see how close the airport is from downtown.

And finally, just a shot I like of the center of town and again, the landmark 3 blue domes of the New Cathedral. Love that sunlight streaming down creating a heavenly follow spot.